A real surprise
Well I’m back from Bosnia Herzegovina (BiH) and it was very different from what I expected before I went.
Now, just to get it out of the way early on, this trip was not what the media would call a ‘jolly’ at tax payers’ expense. Yes, we were very well looked after but the objective of the trip, which was arranged by the OSCE and not paid for by the UK, was to share ideas on how to make different sectors of public services work together better.
You’ll probably assume it was one way ‘traffic’ and that the BiH City Government of Banja Luka would learn a lot from the UK. It wasn’t. The UK and BiH like countries throughout the world share many of the same issues, from a less than impressive participation in democracy (voting) to trying to deliver public services within shrinking budgets.
The fact is, the way they deal with social services, everything from marriage guidance to alcohol abuse and care for the elderly to kids with severe learning disabilities is more integrated 
than we usually have over here. I’ve brought back some really interesting ideas on how we can do things better and those ideas will be shared with others in the public services sector in this country. Anyway, let’s leave the governmental stuff for now and let me tell you why I called this post ‘A real surprise’.
It’s quite simple… my preconception of ‘Bosnia’ was a place still suffering from the aftermath of war with uncleared mines everywhere all mixed in with a post Communist infrastructure and feel. How wrong I was. Banja Luka is BiH’s second city (the capital is Sarajevo) with a 
population of 250,000 and is surrounded by the most stunning mountainous countryside and has a wide and beautiful river running through the middle.
One of the first things I learned was that the war of the 1990s did not affect the majority of the country and certainly not Banja Luka. The city which took the brunt was Sarajevo three hours drive away. Banja Luka has a cosmopolitan and very European feel with wide tree lined avenues, impressive buildings and architecture and a great deal of modern development underway.
It clearly has the feel of a big city but somehow has a chilled out very civil nature to it as well. The surrounding area, as I wrote earlier, is very lovely and the temperature for the three days we were there was a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius during the day. A major aspiration of the city is to become the centre of Europe for Extreme Sports enthusiasts. Everything from bungee jumping to white water rafting. The fact that this type of tourism is growing so fast there suggests they are well on the way to their goal. They are also hosting the World Rafting Championships in 2009 which, having seen the venue, will be a real spectacle.
And the people? Fabulous and very healthy. Strange thing to say, but what is striking is the almost total lack of obesity or anything close to it. You just don’t see it… people of all ages and both sexes look incredibly fit and healthy. I’ve no idea how with the amount of food the population eat. The food is excellent but I feel I’ve just eaten non-stop for the past few days and will need to get in the gym pretty quickly to make feel less guilty of eating so much.
Unlike the UK all meal times are social events. I’m sure I’m not alone in feeling that most meals I have tend to be for the purpose of fuelling the body and not really an event in themselves. In BiH lunch and dinner are full on social occasions. I got the feeling we need to slow down in the UK… I doubt it will happen… sadly I’m certain it won’t.
In summary, Bosnia Herzegovina, and in particular, Banja Luka is a wonderful and exhilarating place to visit. I strongly recommend you put any media driven pre conceived ideas to one side and visit what I believe will be one of the most popular places in Europe to holiday in years to come. I will be returning in a private capacity.
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16 comments
There was a war in Banja Luka: 80% of the prewar population were ethnically cleansed = forcefully expelled during the war and all city 16 mosques, some of them dating from 15th or 16th century, were destroyed by the Serb extreme nationalists.
80%!!! please don´t spread lies and do not spoile nice times this guy had with your hate.
and all of BiH were ethnically clenased it was a war, Banja Luka was not exception.
and here are the data:
According to the last official 1991 census, the municipality of Banja Luka had a population of 195,692, with following ethnic distribution:
106,826 (54.58%) Serbs
29,026 (14.83%) Croats
28,558 (14.59%) Muslims by nationality
23,656 (12.08%) Yugoslavs
7,626 (3.92%) others and unknown
and u can calculate at least 10% of Yugoslav to Serbs. So Serb clenased serbs?! Stop spreading lies.
If u r interested in oictures of Banja Luka visit:
http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=391406
To Prenj: Do not simplify things. You are lying about 80% and give wrong informations. Dayton, man, deyton…
Jebote kako se vijek vi upetljate> Prvo majsta 80%. Ti si ili lud ili toliko bezobrazan i pun zavisti. Sve je Bosnjacima vraceno, svaka kuca svaki stan. Dzamije su obnovljene. Ferhadija se obnavlja. To sto oni nece da se vrate, jbg
Matthew, thank you for these kind words for our city and people. Hope you’ll visit again!
So what? Serbian churches was also destroyed by the muslim nationalists in some part of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Banja Luka is nice and I think most progressive part of Bosnia and Herzegovina today.
I’m glad you like it
come again
Prenj, interesting numbers. Banja Luka municipality pre war had total of 75% of Serbs.
Return of Refugees (success rate) is at best in Banja Luka and Republic of Srpska. There are no Cases in Court where — they are all resolved, for years.
Compare thit to Muslim Sarajavo, or Muslim and Croatioan Mostar and then get back.
Prenj, maybe you should start stopping FUD and lies and be more prosperous — ask your buddies in Sarajevo and Mostar why there are no Serbs in those towns.
I live in Banja Luka, and all my neighburns (Croats and Muslims) are back.
Relax, live, and enjoy your life — its the only one.
Prenj, that what you said is not true. Banja Luka was always populated with ethnical Serbs (great majority). Today Banja Luka is the capital of Republic of Srpska, part of Bosnia where live christians (Serbs). To clarify, second part of Bosnia is populated with mostly muslims and some Croats. Republic of Srpska is smaller but economicaly stronger part of the country. Banja Luka region is the richest part of the country with very small number of unemployed people and with average salary almost equal to European average salary. To be realistic, reason for this good situation is that Banja Luka was not destructed in the war, so all economical capacities are saved. Also, Banja Luka is the biggest education center in the country, and the taxes are smallest in the Europe!!! This informations you can also check from other sources. Geographically, Banja Luka is placed only three hours from the Wiena i.e. only three hours from the Western Europe. Almost all foreign companies have their representatives for Bosnia and Hercegovina in Banja Luka (because of previous reasons). To proof you these informations please check fotos from Banja Luka:
http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=391406
At the end, all I can say is COME TO VISIT BANJA LUKA!!! Beautifull girls, delicious food, very kind people and wonderfull town, you would not be disappointed!
Yes, you are 100% right, Serbs were not expelling Serbs from Banjaluka.
Therefore, I have to make one correction to my statement made above:
… 80% of the prewar non-Serb population were ethnically cleansed …
i’m sooooooo happy i liked banjaluka! come vack again…. kisses
Nice. I’m happy ’cause you liked it ;). It’s always nice to hear that someone like your city.
I agree that many who have lived here don’t live now. But still, Banjaluka is one of rare which can be proud that there were almost none war crimes as in other parts of B&H.
I just come back from one trip. I spent three days in Mostar, in Herzegovina. Huh that is city which is changed completely and there is many blood in the ground. So…Banja Luka can be proud:). It’s good to be born here, have a youth and still live here
Best,
Ljube
I have recently returned from an aid mission to Banja Luka and I violently disagree with your statement that Banja Luka was not affected by the war. We take aid to schools with teachers but no books, chalks, computers,and orphanages with only basics (we provided a cooker and washing machine for one of them) and to disabled organisations who distribute the wheelchairs and walking aids we provide as these basics are not provided by the state. (Even if people have lost limbs to land mines!)Just 5 minutes after dumping a load of stained quilts which we deemed not fit to be used, they were being taken out of the skip by a lady to wash and distribute to her family and friends. You tell me there is nothing wrong with that picture? You should come on our aid convoy and see the real need which is hiding behind the facade of a “new European” city!! (By the way, it is estimated that it will take another 70 years to clear all the landmines which you didnot see!)
Dear Melanie,
I lived in Banja Luka during the war and Banja Luka was not directly affected by the war. Indirectly yes, it is. The border between Serbs and Croats was on the river Sava on the north. On the south there was a border between Serbs and Muslims on the mountain Vlasic.
For example, Sarajevo is pretty much affected by the war, practically completely destroyed.
Please, if you want to prove your words, tell me precisely which building is destroyed, which fabric is destroyed or where are mines and so on. You have wrong information. If you want to walk around Banja Luka, it is completely clear, there are no mines! 100%! I can show you the right side of the Banja Luka, Banja Luka is the city of young peoples, with great possibilities. Of course, as other European cities, you have some poor people. However, there is no hungry people or homeless, like it is a case in the USA or West Europe. I wish you all the best!
To Mitar.
Sorry for delay in response.
The point I was making is that the war has indirectly affected BL, which you agree with. It is true that many ruined buildings in BL are not as direct result of war damage but more to economic problems left in the wake of the war. There are villages just outside BL which are ruined, and the mine fields I mentioned are NOT in BL itself. Sorry for my over enthusiastic comments, but the aid organisation I work with takes tons of aid to BL which is distributed in and around BL (and RS) to many vulnerable groups,disabled,orphanages,schools,various NGO projects etc and is hugely appreciated. So of course we work in the poorest areas with the most disadvantaged people.
I notice that BL seems to have no homeless people or beggars which really puts the UK and other wealthy countries to shame! We could learn much about looking after our own from Bosnia’s example.
The postcards and popular pictures of BL show a beautiful and vibrant city which is recovering well, but I wanted to make the point that Bosnia in general is still experiencing need.
Banja Luka always gives us a warm welcome and the hospitality of people there is second to none. Even late at night I feel safe walking in BL, again it puts the UK to shame! Next time I visit I hope to see more of the new BL and experience more of its beauty.
My best wishes to you and to all in Banja Luka.
Dear Melanie,
thank you for your very nice comment. I wish you to have a pleasent stay in Banja Luka next time you visit us. For you and all other people interested for visiting Banja Luka I recommend to see some nice videos on the youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgk1-3i8BAM
I hope see you soon in our beautifull city!
All the best!
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